Let’s talk about orange wine, a wine drinking trend that has skyrocketed this year. There is so much confusion around this wine style though: is it new? Is it ancient? The answer is, it’s kind of both. Here are a few things you need to know about orange wine with three to try.
What is orange wine?
Orange wine is a wine made with white grapes, but unlike most white wine, the juice, once pressed is left in contact with the skins and usually, the seeds too. The vessels used for this are quite often large earthenware pots rather than steel tanks or oak barrels that we see in more regular winemaking. This extra contact gives the wine more colour, weight and texture than white wines. Some describe them as having the complexity and tannic mouthfeel of red wines with the freshness of white wines. Typically, they tend to be quite savoury in style and pretty dry, with notes of dried fruit, spice and iced tea. The intensity of the colour, savoury characteristics and level of tooth-drying tannins will depend on the amount of time spent on the skins and pips, which could be from a few hours up to a week, months or occasionally, years.
Orange wine is now becoming very much part of a normal wine list, along with white, red and pink. Funny it has taken so long given how long orange wines have been around, but more on that later.
How do you drink orange wines?
Orange wines are best served cool but not cold, so their fruit character and aromatics are not masked by the tannin. They are fantastically versatile and can take a good amount of flavoursome spices, salt and nuts. In its homeland of Georgia, people gather for epic long feasts called ‘supras’ where the wines have to be able to stand up to all sorts of local dishes at the same time. Find one you like and this could be your new wine colour of choice for Christmas lunch.
What’s the difference between orange wine and natural wine?
Natural wine is any wine (white, red, pink, sparkling) that has been made with zero or minimal intervention. This means grapes are left to ferment and do their thing, often in whole bunches, without any additions such as sulphites. They are usually unfiltered too, which is why they are often cloudy. Many orange wines are also ‘natural’ as the tannins and the antioxidants found in grape skins negate the need for additives, but not all of them are.
Orange wine: a new term for an ancient practice
This non-interventionist way of making wine goes thousands of years in the Eastern European country of Georgia, which sits at the intersection of Europe and Asia. It has also been around for hundreds of years in neighbouring Slovenia and Northeastern Italy, so it’s anything but new, though many more countries are now having a go at making their own orange wines. In Georgia, the name for the wine colour has always been translated as ‘amber’ (from ‘karvisperi’) but it was only in 2004 that an English wine merchant coined the term ‘orange wine’ and that is what has stuck.
This ancient practice of making amber wines in Georgia often involves large earthenware pots known as qvevri, which in the olden days were buried in the ground to help regulate the temperature of the wine during fermentation (it creates a fair bit of heat). The practice has remained, despite numerous incursions from their northern neighbours and today, there’s a new wave of winemakers blending the traditional techniques with a more modern approach. The results are extremely exciting for the wine world.
Three orange wines to try