can you drink wine out any glass? the three drinkers will wong — Photo credit: Will Wong

When wandering around the homeware section of a department store, it's not uncommon to see people perusing over wine glasses. But with so many choices out there it gets one thinking - What’s all the fuss really about? Can't I drink wine out of any glass? What should I look for when buying new glassware? Do I really need different glassware for different types of wine?

Understanding wines is complex enough, but now there is the pressure to get a set of respectable glasses to show your appreciation of wine without breaking the bank, or the glasses! A glass is a glass, right? Well, not really. If you have ever pondered the questions above, then read on as they’re all about to be answered.

To start with, let’s go through the key elements of any wine glass, and how each plays a part in your overall experience of the wine, because there are additional considerations before you invest in your glasses. This step-by-step guide will help you make an informed choice to enhance your wine enjoyment at home and beyond.

The FIVE aspects of your ideal wine glass

Whether you are browsing online or in a homeware store, the look of the glass and its price might be your first considerations. Wherever possible, it’s a good idea to visit a physical shop to hold and feel the wine glasses in stock to get a sense of their size, weight and how they actually feel in your hand. It is worth considering if you are purchasing just a pair, or a set of four to six - storage spaces for your exquisite glassware shouldn’t be an after-thought.

Whilst manufacturers such as Riedel boast an extensive grape varietal range, some critics are less concerned about subtle differences than the fundamental characteristics that make an aesthetically pleasing and functional wine glass. But does the same wine smell and taste different across different designs and shapes? Yes, in both nuances and sometimes even in obvious ways!

Imagine your favourite orchestra or band performing exactly the same piece across venues of different sizes and acoustics - you will pick up notable differences and details, especially in classical music.

Our sensory perceptions, nose and palate are highly personal. The glasses featured here are part of my personal collection. Other brands and designs are available. It may not be possible to try before you buy, but any well-designed and well-made wine glass consists of the following key elements.

1. Bowl

The heart of the vessel which holds the genie out of the bottle. Aim for a clear tulip-shaped design with a tapered top. Avoid coloured patterns, or oblique designs that obscure the true colour of your wine. After all, you see the wine as you pour, before you get to enjoy its aroma and the first sip.

We recommend filling the bowl to no more than a quarter-full - you are not serving a pint of beer in a pub. Aromas dance in this ‘space’, allowing you to swirl the wine round in the glass, which further releases the aromas before your first sip. Our sense of smell is often underrated, and it has an intricate effect on how we taste.

The right glass brings all the nuances of flavour to the fore and can improve your experience of a wine. It’s like an orchestral conductor or music producer at a mixing desk working with the same musicians (your wine), enabling the right balance of bouquet and accentuated flavour.

2. Rim

All other things being equal, we cannot over-emphasise this final frontier before the wine hits your lips and palate. So, if you have a chance to view and touch any wine glass in person, hold it and feel its rim. In general, handmade and mouth-blown crystal glasses have much thinner rims than the machine-made, allowing a more even flow of the wine as it leaves the glass.

As you indulge in the first anticipated sip or kiss, a good glass gives you the sensation of sucking out of thin air. Your sensory focus lies more on the taste of the wine, as opposed to the thickness of the glass.

People often forget the romance involved with drinking fermented grape juice. After all, not every first kiss makes your heart skip a beat!

3. Stem vs Stemless

can you use any wine glass? will wong drinklusive the three drinkers — Photo credit: Will Wong

Besides its function to support the bowl, the thickness and height of the stem also shape how the overall glass looks and balances with the base. Thicker stems might seem to provide greater stability, but it also adds to the weight and overall feel of the glass in your hand.

The match-thin stem of the Josephine No.1 White above looks fragile, but it’s actually very elegant to hold and allows you to swirl the glass effortlessly. It also separates your hand from the bowl and avoids warming up the wine or leaving fingerprints around the bowl. Although, it’s not really recommended for outdoor use.

The Govino stemless glass is made from unbreakable 100% Tritan Co-polyester, making it ideal for outdoor picnics. Glass variants from leading manufacturers are widely available too. Besides the obvious disadvantages, they are more stable and better suited for balcony, patio or garden dining.

4. Base

The ‘foot’ of the entire glass which holds everything together. This is also where you are likely to find the manufacturer’s logo (or any copycats’). It should be proportional to the size of the bowl and the height of the stem to maintain overall balance and aesthetic harmony.

WHAT IS THE Right Glass for each Wine?

Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Who doesn’t love the sound of a sparkler cork pop, and the sight of dazzling bubbles rising up that glass before the toast? But what about its flavour as the fizz warms up and begins to fizzle out?

The three most common sparkling wine glasses are:

1. The Coupe

Up until the 1970s, Champagne was traditionally served in coupes. These wide-rimmed glasses were often made from crystal and, according to legend, were modelled on the curves of the Marquise de Pompadour, the official chief mistress of Louis XV. Others claim the shape was inspired by Marie-Antoinette’s breast, Queen of France and wife of Louis XVI. However, the glass was really designed in England in 1663, specifically for sparkling wines.

It looks great in a Champagne pyramid, but the wide rim exposes the Champagne to air rapidly, causing the bubbles to disperse leaving the wine to taste flat.

Example - Riedel Extreme Junmai Sake Coupe

2. The Flute

Probably the most popular and immediately associated with serving that festive or everyday fizz! As you take the first sip after toasting, the rapid gush of gas bubbles rush up the flute and practically mask the more delicate aromas and flavours. The straight-sided, open-topped shapes of the flute; just like the coupe mean that aromas easily escape into the atmosphere.

Example - Riedel Vinum Vintage Champagne Flute

3. Tulip-shaped with in-curving tops

Aim for a clear glass with a slender stem. Champagnes or sparking wines need to be served well-chilled (7-10ºC / 45-50ºF). You definitely do not want your hand to warm it up with a stemless glass. The tulip-shaped is our preferred design as it helps enclose the sparkler’s aroma and funnel it towards the nose. It also allows just enough surface area for the wine to open up, without fizz escaping too fast.

Example - Josephine No.4 Champagne (hand blown)

If you’d rather not invest in dedicated Champagne glasses, try the following white wine glasses instead.

Young Whites (Albariño, Bacchus, Sauvignon & Pinot Grigio), Rosé or Lighter Reds (Beaujolais & Valpolicella)

These wines are traditionally drunk young, with their fresh fruitiness. They do not usually require much aeration before serving. The above white wine glasses are smaller than those below to concentrate the delicate aromas of young whites and reds, or Rosé. The narrower bowl helps in preserving the wine’s subtle flavours and nuances.

Example - Josephine No.1 White (hand blown) and Zalto Denk’Art Universal (hand blown)

Big Whites (Oaked Chardonnay, Viognier, White Rioja and even Orange Wine]

Aged whites such as oaked Australian or Californian Chardonnay are best served less cold than younger whites. They would benefit from a larger bowl to help the wine open up and reach optimum serving temperature (14-15ºC / 57-59ºF).

Example - Riedel Veloce Chardonnay and Zieher Vision Intense (hand blown)

Light to Medium-bodied Reds (Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Grenache & Sangiovese, e.g. Chianti)

A traditional wide bowl and sometimes with a shorter stem helps enclose the delicate aromas with a larger surface area for oxygen contact. It directs the intense flavours to the correct part of your tongue.

Example - Riedel Veloce Pinot Noir / Nebbiolo and Spiegelau Definition Burgundy Glass and Josephine No.3 Red (hand blown)

Full-bodied Reds (Bordeaux blends, Barolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Zinfandel)

The bowl shape is designed for bold red wines, with a broad base and a top that tapers/closes at the opening. The open and large surface area allows a significant amount of oxygen to contact the wine. The wider opening makes the wine taste smoother after some swirling and time in the glass. It brings out the fruit flavours and all the hidden complexities the winemaker likes you to discover!

Example -Josephine No.3 Red (hand blown) and Riedel Veloce Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot

What If I Want One Glass for Everything?

We know that some of the suggested glassware above aren’t exactly cheap. Storage space could be a problem in a modern home too. Although less ideal for the bold tannic reds, we recommend two hand-blown glasses that are both well made and very elegant to hold and sip from. The key difference is the straight profile of the Zalto Denk’Art Universal vs the ‘kink’ on the Josephine No.2 Universal. If you wish to spend less, then the machine-made Riedel Veloce Chardonnay would also be a talking point due to its big tulip shape.

Is It Better To Buy Cheap Wine Glasses?

We share your anxiety when it comes to spending big on expensive glasses - hold on for our aftercare advice. Meanwhile, let’s do some simple maths. Say if you share a bottle of wine with your partner four times a week. That is reasonable so it translates to three 125ml glasses four times a week for only 48 weeks in a year (let’s say including Dry January). If you invested £50 on just one hand-blown glass, you would have used it almost 600 times in an average year. The premium you pay on each serving is just over 8 pence. We think it is an investment that will reward your sensory experience for years to come.

However, if you were getting at least six to twelve glasses for frequent home entertaining, then the dishwasher-safe machine-made Riedel Veloce might be a better option.

Aftercare

Most of the recommended glassware here is delicate so we suggest hand-washing. Kind souls have posted many online video tutorials on ‘how to hand wash and polish wine glasses’. It could be a little nerve-racking at first but practice makes perfect. Here are a few do’s and don’ts that might help:

DO:

If left overnight, rinse each used glass with warm water then shake any excess water off.
Spray a little white vinegar into the base of each glass, especially if red wine was served.
Use only clean, warm soapy water to wash.
Hold the glass by the bottom of its bowl and use a silicone brush to scrub off any stubborn red wine stains.
Rinse under a warm (not hot) tap but beware of knocking your glass against the tap.
Hand polish with two pieces of lint-free/microfibre cloths.
Always hold the bottom of the bowl with one hand wrapped in a lint-free/microfibre cloth; never by the stem.
Carefully dry the outside and inside of the bowl, the stem and the base with the other hand wrapped in the second piece of lint-free cloth.

DON’T:

Soak the glasses in hard water overnight. The watermark from the limescale will be a nightmare to clean.
Wipe dry with the usual cotton tea towel; its microfibre would stick all over your clean glass.
Hold your glass by its stem whilst washing or polishing. That is the most delicate part and you could snap it.

A glass is more than just a glass when it comes to your stemware. In the good old days before wireless streaming, you would not invest in high end audio equipment, only to connect them with budget speaker cables. Even in this day and age of smart TV and live-streaming, the quality of your audio-visual experience not only depends on your hardware, but definitely the quality of your broadband too. You can listen to music out of your mobile phone’s tiny speakers, but it will not be the same as a pair of outstanding speakers or noise-cancelling headphones.

Whether you are buying just one glass for all your needs, or different ones for different purposes, we hope this guide helps you make better and informed choices. Above all, overcome the fear of breaking any ‘expensive’ glassware. Enjoy the clear vision from a quality glass. Feel its elegant lightness when swirling and sipping. The rewards will pay back your initial investment many times over for years to come.

By Will Wong

will wong drinklusive the three drinkers