Drinky Desserts: Your Guide to Sweet Wine Styles

No longer relegated to the ‘what do I do with this?’ cupboard or have a capful for cooking and the rest left to gather dust, no no no. Sweet wines are back and FINALLY showing their worth to a whole new audience as the great drinky desserts they truly are, boosted by the summer trend for sweet wine cocktails and boozy puds.

Here’s your guide to some key styles of sweet wines from around the world that you can swap with sugar syrup in cocktails, simply sip chilled, or splash into your puddings. 

Noble Rot Style

TRY: L’Or du Ciron Sauternes 2016

Perhaps the most famous (and expensive) sweet wine in town, Sauternes is a posh, dessert vino from Bordeaux made largely with Sémillon and Sauvignon. Here, a ‘noble rot’ fungus desiccates the grapes so what is left is super concentrated, honeyed and sweet. Think marmalade, candied peel, marzipan and spice. Great alone or with ice and loves a lemon drizzle cake. 

Find here: M&S / Ocado
Price: £14.75

TRY: Château Combet Laroche Monbazillac

Often described  - a tad unfairly-  as ‘poor man’s Sauternes’, Monbazillac hails from just east of Bordeaux and makes wines in a similar style. Less unctuously sweet than Sauternes and often with a subtle, burned caramel flavour, this is a great, sugar syrup alternative in Old Fashioned twists and thanks to the lower price point, means less guilt when splashing it around!

Find here: Lidl
Price: £7.99 full bottle

TRY: Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh

A brilliant, price savvy Sauternes alternative, Pacherenc hails from Gascony in southwest France and uses gorgeously greengage-scented local grapes like Gros Manseng. A noble rot wine like Sauternes where affected grapes dehydrate and give a complex, marzipan note, this is a lighter, fresher version that’s crying out for citrusy cocktails. Use it to replace the vermouth and honeyed rim in the famous Oppenheimer martini cocktail.

Find here: Lidl
Price: £7.99 full bottle

Late Harvest Sweet white

TRY: Brown Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora

Late harvest wine is sweet because grapes stay longer on the vine and dry out, concentrating the sugars without the help of ‘noble rot’. This late harvest style keeps a more zesty freshness than the noble rot wines and this delicious drop hails from cool Victoria in Australia. It uses the grapey, floral Muscat grape and rare Flora grape to produce a lightly sweet vino that you’ll want to spritz on as perfume! Great in frozen cocktails and boozy brulées.

Find here: Tesco
Price: £8.50 half bottle

Moscato

TRY: Barefoot Pink Moscato

Cheap and very cheerful, Moscato wines are usually very fruity and sweet, aromatic and lower in booze than regular vino. Moscato is another name for the Muscat grape and this peachy pink from Barefoot is unashamedly ‘fun’, tasting like boozy strawberry ice lollies. It's perfect for pink, pimms-like wine cocktails. Just add peaches and strawberries with soda or lemonade!

Find here: Asda
Price: on offer £5.50 (down from £7.50)

Sweet Fortified: Muscat

TRY: Campbells of Rutherglen, Rutherglen Muscat

If you love the idea of boozy, salted caramel, then this dark, Aussie Muscat is for you! Gorgeously sweet with a salty freshness this sweetie style is unique to southern Australia’s Rutherglen area. It loves anything with spice or salt and is amazing in cocktails. Try it with fruit and cinnamon in a Rutherglen Sangria or pour it over ice cream with some coffee as an affogato. Stunning!

Find here: Waitrose
Price: £13.39

sweet fortified: Madeira

Blandy's Duke of Clarence Madeira

Madeira from the Portuguese island of the same name is the sweet-salty, nutty, fortified and aged booze that smells incredible, like fruit cake and fudge! Made with the red Negra Mole grape and white Malvasia, Bual, Verdelho and Sercial grapes, it comes in several styles from dry to lusciously sweet. And while it’s often relegated to splashing into Christmas puds, it’s actually rather wonderful in complex cocktails like a salted caramel martini or anything with chocolate in it. This one is full-on and fruity. Bold and retro.

Find here: Morrisons
Price: on offer £11.50 (down from £15) full bottle

Passito

TRY: Heaven on Earth organic, Fair Trade Muscat d’Alexandria

What is Passito wine? It’s a style of sweet wine that has been partially dried, often on straw, to allow water to evaporate before being pressed to concentrate the sugars. This golden, deliciously Autumnal wine is made with muscat grapes in South Africa and dried on a bed of Rooibos and straw. It’s grapey and peachy, all apricot and honey deliciousness! Awesome sipped alone or with blue cheese.

Find here: Ocado

Price: £10 (£8.50 on offer)

Splash out, passito: Vinsanto

Vinsanto 2002, Late release, Estate Argyros

Not to be confused with the fortified wine ‘Vin Santo’ from Tuscany, Vinsanto hails from Santorini in Greece and is made with Assyrtiko that has been aged for a significant amount of time. This 2002 late release was made with Assyrtiko grapes from over 200 year old vines and aged for at least sixteen years. It has insane complexity and is  beautifully balanced. You won’t want to mix this super special one - sip it alone, over ice cream or with a nibble of dark chocolate.

Find here: Epinoia.co.uk

Price: £76.70 Link

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Santorini Wines: Your ABC Guide

Greek wines from both the mainland and the islands are becoming ever more popular as people return from their holidays having tasted some pretty special sips. Quality has skyrocketed over recent years and we are now starting to see more Greek wines on the shelves in our supermarkets and indies as well as on restaurant lists. Santorini seems to be leading the way with its zesty, foodie, white wines made from the Assyrtiko grape, so is well worth a closer look. Here is your ABC guide to the PDO white wines of Santorini with some to try…

What and where?

Santorini is a small archipelago of Greek, volcanic islands in the southern Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece, though "Santorini" is commonly used to refer to the largest and most famous island of the group.

Ancient history

Proof of winemaking on the island has been found dating back  to 20-30 centuries BC with some important findings from the bronze age. This is why the island is described as a ‘living museum’ with the oldest, uninterrupted vine cultivation in the world. The community is working towards earning Santorini UNESCO status to safeguard its vines and practices. 

Assyrtiko: Queen of Grapes

There are 64 wine grapes on the island of which 59 are known. However, only 3 of them are allowed in the PDO: Protected Designation of Origin, which ensures the highest quality in the wines. The hero grape is Assyrtiko - a white grape indigenous to Santorini. It has a vibrant yellow, thick skin and makes gastronomic wines that keep their freshness and acidity despite the heat and relatively high alcohol levels. Assyrtiko wines tend to be delicately aromatic, citrussy and very saline. They’re often aged on their lees (dead yeast cells) and see some bâtonnage (lees stirring) to add a richer, creamier texture. 

Labour intensive, unique viticulture

Santorini is super hot, exceedingly dry and very windy with infertile, volcanic soils. The subsoil is just over 60% pumice with very shallow, loose ‘volcanic dirt’ over the top. Pumice works well to save water here and black lava stones absorb heat away from the vines. To combat the heat and wind and to maximise the water that comes almost entirely from the morning mists, vines are trained into circular, nest shapes called ‘koulouras’. 

Ungrafted vines

On the plus side, there are no pests to contend with and very little disease as the environment is so harsh. This also means that vines here are immune to the phylloxera louse, so they remain ungrafted, with some roots said to be centuries old. These old vines have incredibly deep roots and give the wines dramatically low yields. The result is more concentrated, particularly mineral wines of top quality. 

PDO Santorini

PDO Santorini: Wines must be 85% Assyrtiko, with the rest made up of Aidani and Aithiri, which are softer and more aromatic. The best wines are said to be always made from 100% Assyrtiko. If the label just says Assyrtiko, it’s not PDO Santorini.

PDO Santorini ‘Nykteri’: Nyketri means ‘working all through the night’ as grapes were harvested in the small hours to keep them cooler. The expression now refers to oaked versions of these white wines, where the oak mabe older and larger to add more texture than flavour or newer for a more oaky taste. Whichever style, Nkyteri wines offer a lot of structure and are often described as ‘white wines that drink like red’.

PDO Santorini Vinsanto: These are sweet, late harvest wines that must be made with at least 80% Assyrtiko. They are dried in the sun and fermented very slowly in open vats before being aged in wooden barrels for at least 2 years. The result is moreish, sweet wines that are well balanced and fresh with notes of toffee, mocha, nuts and caramel. They love chocolate and cheese!

Modern Versus Traditional Styles

There has been lots of work in recent years to up the quality in all PDO Santorini wines to showcase the purity of the varietal. Since 2016 particularly, there has been a huge quality push with Assyrtiko becoming more premium, dry, steely, fresh and pure in style. Producers are being incentivised to keep their vines and not sell the land for tourism, so they are being paid much larger amounts for their yields. In turn, this has meant that much more attention is being paid to the winemaking process. There used to be a lot more residual sugar allowed in for example and styles really varied a lot with many Nykteri wines particularly being more oxidative, like a fino Sherry. 

PDO Santorini wines to try

Sigalas Santorini PDO Assyrtiko, 2021

£33 from Maltby & Greek 

Santo Nykteri PDO Assyrtiko-Athiri-Aidani, 2021

£28.50 from Maltby & Greek

Estate Argyros Vinsanto First Release, 2015

£39.90 from 8Wines