Words by Colin Hampden-White
I remember when Bushmills was the predominant Irish whiskey in the UK and Ireland. It was a while ago in the 1990s when I was at university and was learning as much as I could about whiskey. Scotch was all dominant, but if you liked Irish whiskey Bushmills was more than likely to be your dram of choice. After this time, other Irish whiskies came to prominence, however, if Proximo, who became Bushmill’s owner in 2014, has anything to do with it, this situation is about to change.
Bushmills has big ambitions to become the biggest Irish whiskey in the world. Now they know this takes time and effort, and that time and effort has to start somewhere. And where better than at home? I recently spoke to Alex Thomas, the master blender at Bushmills. Alex took up the post at the end of last year, and although she said it was a daunting prospect, it was a challenge she relished. Having worked at Bushmills for many years, being given the opportunity to blend Bushmills at a time when the brand was being marketed well for the first time in a long time is exciting. She said “we need to start at home, then one country at a time we have the possibility of becoming the biggest brand in Irish Whiskey”. A big claim, however, she has such conviction I don’t doubt her for a minute.
Bushmills have two great advantages to help them achieve this goal. Alex herself is a great asset, not only with her blending skills but also as an ambassador for the brand, she has an infectious enthusiasm and her knowledge is inexhaustive so to a whisky geek like myself Alex is fascinating to listen to. And secondly, but just as importantly, the whiskies, which are fabulous. I recently tasted three, the 10, 16 and 21 year old expressions and all were very good and exceptional value for money. Especially if one considers the prices of single malt Irish whiskey today.
Bushmills 10 year old
This whisky was the dram I most recognised from the days of old. Smooth and fruity. Melons and peach mix with hints of tropical guava fruit with a floral spicy finish. This whiskey won the best Irish single malt in 2007, and the quality is still there. Found in specialist retailers as well as supermarkets it is great value.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 40%
Find here: £34.99
Bushmills 16 year old
This 16 year old expression is a big step up from the 10 year old in its depth and breadth of flavour. Starting its life in ex bourbon casks, the whiskey was then extra matured in ex sherry casks, before finally spending a little time in ex Port casks. All these casks give different flavours and all marry very well together. With a nose of honey and stone fruits it develops on the palate with rich summer fruits, dark honey and tropical flavours. The finish is viscous with syrup and red fruits and a touch of spice.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 40%
Find here: £78
Bushmills 21 year old
This expression moves on nicely from the 16 year old. It has a similar richness, but a great deal more finesse. The nose has similar honey notes but also spiced fruit and dark chocolate. The whisky is matured, like the 16 year old, in ex bourbon and ex sherry casks, but finished for two years in an ex Madeira cask. This gives a tropical mango note on the palate balancing the nutty and dried dark fruit flavours. The finish is sweet with a little damp tobacco and spice.
Size: 700ml
ABV: 40%
Find here: £160
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