california

Premium Californian Wine: 3 Must-Know Producers

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What does Californian wine mean to you? In the UK at least, it's not the easiest to find the real gems. I’m talking about those exclusive, hand-made wines; the ones sought after by wine lovers the world over. Strawberry-scented Pinot Noirs, sunshine-in-a-glass Chardonnays and powerful, brooding Cabernets are some of California's wine highlights these days and there are certain producers you can rely on to create something exceptional. Here are three that you should get to know for a real taste of premium California wine: Orin Swift, Talbott Vineyards and Bear Flag.

Orin Swift

Orin Swift is the personal project of esteemed, self-made winemaker Dave Phinney, who has very quickly managed to create one of the most exciting and highly prized, new wave wine brands in California. Named in homage to his parents (Orin was his father’s middle name and Swift, his mother’s maiden name), the winery started as a small project and grew in reputation quickly thanks to Dave’s excellent wines and their iconic, head-turning labels for which he has become known. His particular visual style grew from an appreciation of all kinds of art during his youth, from the fine masters his parents taught him about, to the funky, punky, street art of the ‘80s with which he grew up. This love of art translates to his labels and Dave thinks of each one as a unique piece of art, each with its own story that in turn, helps tell the story of the wine the label adorns. You can listen to the stories yourself by seeking out these Californian gems from Orin Swift:

Orin Swift The Three Drinkers

Sauvignon Blanc

Orin Swift ‘Blank Stare' 2016

California is becoming known for oaked Sauvignon Blancs that turn this zippy grape into something gloriously tropical. Barrel fermented partly in new French oak, this Sauvignon has exciting layers of lime, jasmine and lemon meringue pie with a zinging, fresh core of acidity and a cool mineral spine. Drink it alone or with lightly spiced Thai food.

Find it at Vinum Fine Wines from July for £36

Chardonnay

Orin Swift Mannequin Chardonnay 2016

The idea behind Mannequin was to create a modern, fresh style of Chardonnay while not losing the characteristics that made the world fall in love with this full-bodied grape in the first place. The result is a honeysuckle-scented, golden wine packed with lush notes of vanilla and butter thanks to some delicate oak and lees aging, perfectly balanced by a refreshing vein of lemon rind, apple skin and peach.

Find it at Great Western Wine from July for £41  (or £36.90 in a mixed case of 12)

Cabernet Sauvignon

Orin Swift Palermo Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Cabernet, along with Chardonnay, was what put California wine on the world wine map after the famous ‘Judgement of Paris’ blind tasting back in 1976 where California took on the French and won. This is exactly the kind of Cabernet that did that: Full-bodied and bold, this is a long and complex wine with generous notes of blackberry, graphite and even tea leaf. Give it some air before drinking and it sings with barbecue beef.

Find it at Wine Rack now or Majestic Wine from July for £49.99 (or £39.99 in a mixed case of 6).

Talbott Vineyards

Talbott vineyards the three drinkers

If you love your dreamy, soft and silky California Pinots and Chardonnays, reach for a wine from Talbott Vineyards. With vines based in the prestigious Santa Lucia Highlands AVA in Monterey County, conditions are cool and mild, perfect for these premium grape varieties. Within the rolling hills surrounding the estate, lies Talbott’s iconic Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. With full control over the growing process and production of wines from this plot, winemaker David Coventry leads the team to lovingly craft the greatest expression possible out of this exceptional fruit. 

Chardonnay

Talbott Vineyards Kali Hart Chardonnay 2018, Monterey

If you’re after a morning sunshine style Chardonnay, then this Kali Hart Chard is it. Crisp and bright thanks to the super cool microclimate where the grapes are grown, this wine showcases tropical notes with a touch of vanilla and an incredibly refreshing finish. Try it with creamy pasta dishes like carbonara or squash ravioli with a sprinkling of parmesan. Delicious!

Find it in store at Majestic wine from July for £24.99 (£19.99 in mixed case of 6) 

Pinot Noir

Talbott Vineyards Kali Hart Pinot Noir 2017, Monterey

Soft and approachable but not without complexity, this Pinot Noir is elegant but generous, with notes of cola nut, cinnamon spice, ripe blackberries and a hint of smoke. Easy-drinking enough to have alone, but it sings with mushrooms and roast chicken with all the trimmings.

Find it in store at Majestic wine from July for £24.99 (£19.99 in a mixed case of 6)  

Bear Flag

Bear Flag the three drinkers

Bear Flag wine celebrates the brave souls who stand their ground, grabbing the most out of life and being who they want to be. Aaron Piotte, Bear Flag’s winemaker and a Sonoma County native, thought this spirit would best embody the wines he wanted to make. Choosing to harness the power of the region's wild and untamed vines, he crafts bold and beautiful wines from Zinfandel as well as Cabernet and a plethora of other grapes in honour of those who do not wish to waste one moment of this glorious life.  

Zinfandel

Bear Flag Zinfandel Sonoma County

Zinfandel is California’s flagship grape and the area of Dry Creek Valley is one of the most renowned for it in the whole of California. This is thanks to its day to night temperature swings, which concentrate the aromas and flavours and keep a beefy, flavoursome wine fresh. Concentrated, dark and toasty, with notes of fig jam and blueberry pie this wine is bold, yet brilliant. If it were a person, it would be Marlon Brando and it loves a meaty barbecue.

Find in store at Wine Rack for £24.99 or Majestic for £24.99 (or £22.49 in a mixed case of 6).

Once & Future Wines with Joel Peterson

Joel Peterson is known affectionately in the wine world as ‘The Godfather of Zin’. He’s the man who gave Zinfandel its iconic status in the US, having co-founded Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma back in 1976. It was from here that the expression ‘no wimpy wines’ was born and Peterson became the poster man for rich, concentrated, figgy Zinfandel wines that packed a huge, alcoholic, tooth-staining punch.

Fast forward to now however, and Peterson’s focus has shifted. He sold Ravenswood to Constellation in 2018 and has gone back to his roots, literally, to embark on a much smaller project where we gets to make tiny quantities of fine wine from vines that are often over 100 years old. Gone are the jammy, powerhouse wines made in huge quantities. Say hello to concentrated, yet fresh, lean and perfumed wines where often, only a couple of hundred cases of each are made. This new project is called Once & Future.

“I never want to produce more wine than I can physically make myself,” he tells us at a recent tasting of wines from the just-released 2017 vintage. “Once & Future allows me to get back to what I always wanted Ravenswood to be: a small project with old vines and a keen sense of place.”

Joel looks for forgotten vineyards with old vines with grapes that should have had more of a legacy than the ‘blight’, as he calls it, of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From the sandy soils of Oakley Vineyard where 117 year old Mataro (Mourvedre) vines stands on their own roots to 129 year old Zinfandel vines in the famous Tuscan Red Hills Series soils, these Once & Future wines, while a new project for Joel, showcase a real snapshot of Californian viticultural history.

The Once & Future Wine Range

We taste through the range of six wines and it becomes apparent immediately that this is not Ravenswood mark two; these are wines in a totally different league. Grapes that traditionally have made juicy, boozy, inky fruit bombs are graceful, light on their feet and silky, mineral smooth. All are incredibly bright, supple and fresh. Still so young, but incredibly drinkable, it will be exciting to see what happens to this with a few more years of bottle age.

On the table

Coming soon to Hedonism Wines and Harrods.

2017 Once & Future Oakley Road Vineyard Mataro from Contra Costa County. RRP £56

2017 Once & Future Oakley Road Vineyard Zinfandel from Contra Costa County. RRP £48

2017 Once & Future Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel from Sonoma Valley. RRP £48

2017 Once & Future Teldeschi “Frank’s Block” Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley. RRP £48

2017 Once & Future Sangiacomo Vineyard Merlot from Carneros. RRP £56

2017 Once & Future Palisades Petite Sirah from Napa Valley. RRP £56

By Helena Nicklin